Thursday, December 26, 2013

Garden Route, part 4, Baviaanskloof, 24 - 26 December


We traveled via the R62 in the direction of Joubertina along the scenic Langkloof and then on to Kareedouw. At the Assegaaibosh Station we bought ice cream (our last for the couple of coming days but we didn't know that at that moment) and followed the directions as set out from this junction.


The journey to Baviaans Lodge was already part of the adventure and we wished we hired an off road or 4x4 vehicle! The lodge is very isolated far from the nearest town.


The road crosses the mountains and the valley of the Kouga river.



It's literally at the end of a very long dirt road. The drive is beautiful and exciting as you're never sure if you are driving in the right directions.




 Maarten became immediate friend with the youngest of the owner's children. So we practically didn't see him during our stay. I can't say I liked all the "kids'" activities particularly pulling the ticks out of the turtle and dogs disgusted me. But anyway, Maarten had a blast and we could go exploring the surroundings.

There was a "boomslang", a poisonous snake, that lived in the tree by the entrance to the dining room. We could only see a part of his greenish body as the branches were very dense but he was so low we could touch him. I wasn't the only one who was not comfortable walking under the low hanging branches. Also the dogs barked nervously.  


Our stone cottage had a big potential but was "a little" run down. The shower hose and head was laying outside at the picnic table and Rob, the owner, didn't seem to be worried about that. Therefore in the evening "my Rob" had to screw it into the bath faucet.


And what about the gas water heater?!
But the nice and friendly owner made up for it and the location was absolutely stunning, tranquil and peaceful.. There was no electricity, no cell phone coverage. A quiet and secluded destination definitely only for nature lovers, those who are prepared to take the less travelled road.

Ferns from the dinosaurs time are found here.

The first evening Rob and one of his sons drove us up the mountains to have a sundowner with a magnificent views all around the mountains.



Admiring one of the many majestic and ancient Outeniqua yellowwoods along the trail.
  The day after we had a nice walk along a riverside up a lost "kloof" with swimming holes.  


We had to climb up a very steep rock to get into an ancient cave to view some of the San paintings.

 
  
Descending was even more challenging.

Closeby the lodge we came across those two parents...

...and their baby.

Ready for the Christimas dinner together with Rob's kids and Rein and Andre, our fellow travelers for several days.


On our last day we took a walk up to a San people shelter to admire their rock paintings and also to enjoy the stunning views.



Too bad we had to leave this place. Maarten was extremely sad leaving his new friends behind but Rob told him he is welcome to come and stay whenever he wants.  

But the adventure wasn't over yet! Surely not for Rein and Andre.

 "Helping" the turtle to move off the road to allow our car to pass.

Tuesday, December 24, 2013

Garden Route, part 3, Swartberg Mountains and the passes of Little Karoo, 22 - 24 December

Good bye to the serene reserve!

It took more than one hour drive on the gravel road before we reached the N2 again, which is the main highway along the Indian Ocean coast of the country.
 
 
Breerivier in Malagas

We had to cross the Breerivier (Brede River) in Malagas, using the "Pont", old man-powered ferry where pedestrians and vehicles are manually hauled across the river!
 We didn't stay long on the N2 as today we were heading to Swartberg Mountains. We drove the famous Route 62, also known as the Mountain Route. This scenic route took us through Tradough Pass near town of Barrydale, through farming towns of Calitzdorp and Ladismith, it was like in a different world. In the afternoon we finally reached our next lodge located just outside Oudtshoorn on the route to the nearby Swartberg Mountains.

It was too chic for my liking for a stay with Maarten. But there was a beautiful large garden and two pools, they had a friendly big dog and many frogs came up in the evening so no problem at all.

There was an ostrich farm nearby where we did a guided tour. Maarten insisted on riding this huge birds. The tour turned out to be quite interesting and Maarten did ride the ostrich. But did he enjoy the ride?

Proteas at the junction with GamkasKloof, also known as "Die Hel"

We drove the Swartberg Pass in the hope we can take a hiking trail up there. But the pass was so narrow and I was really scared only to sit next to Rob who was driving that my legs were all cramped only from imaginary pushing down the brake pedal.
Driving up the mountains you had a breathtaking view of the Cango Valley.
The top of the Swartberg Pass
But no place seemed to be really safe to park the car and leave so we drove all the way to the little town of Prince Albert and had a lunch there in a cosy little place with a suitable name Lah di dah.

almost down
On our way back I wanted to walk at least down from the top. I enjoyed the walk except of when occasional cars were passing by and I got asked several times if I don't need any help, if I'm all right, etc. One bike driver even told me I can't be well if I prefer walking the mountain instead of driving.

Sunday, December 22, 2013

Garden Route, part 2, De Hoop Nature Reserve (20 - 22 December)

After some three hour drive to the east we noticed an unobtrusive sign for the Hoop Nature Reserve. As we turned right onto the dirt road we were quite confused as this road lead through quite an abandoned area. We were glad to see a working farm and asked them for the directions. The farmer seemed to be very pleased to see some people here. And our directions were correct!
About half an hour later we arrived at the reserve gate. It was such a huge difference between the surroundings so far!


Shortly after driving through the gate we got this unexpected view over the reserve. The dunes on the horizon were so white we would guess it's snow if the temperatures weren't in the thirties!


We came here without high expectations and we were blown away by the most tranquil natural setting and superb cottage.
 

The wildlife is free to roam amongst the cottages, francolins, baboons and Maarten's favorite three stripped mouse.. Herds of eland, bontebok, duiker, zebra, grysbok... were grazing around, the animals wander past the windows, an exceptional view.

De reserve is renowned for whale sightings but in December we were too late.
We drove to Koppie Alleen, to the beach is only 15 minutes drive.

We couldn't be so close to the sea without exploring the tide pools, right?

The gorgeous white sand dunes, green shrubs and the intense blue sea, nothing less than spectacular.


We were sorry we could only spent two nights here.
But we hope to come back soon!

Friday, December 20, 2013

Garden Route, part 1, Hoerikwaggo trail (16 - 19 December)

After a relatively short flight (3 hours and 40 minutes) we safely landed in Cape Town. For me even one hour flight seems too much. Anyway, we were picked up at the air port by an Angolan! representative and brought by a surprisingly luxury car to our first accommodation in Sea Point.
Within an hour I was treated to a delicious sushi! That was actually one of the higlights of our South African stay. I could eat sushi 3 times a day! This might sound rather pathetic and you probably only understand when you lived in Luanda.

On the second day another well dressed gentleman arrived. He appeared to be our driver for that day but he was far too early. At 6:30 in the morning! We sent him away as our itinerary said our transfer for the Hoerikwaggo accommodation was in the late afternoon. Shortly after that we received a call that the plans were changed due to the strong wind and we are expected to do the Kirstenbosch botanical garden tour today already. We packed quickly our stuff and drove to the gardens to meet our guide Chris who was supposed to guide us also on the Hoerikwaggo trail.


The gardens were interesting but it was very hot and it was more sauntering rather than walking therefore quite exhausting and boring for Maarten.






We spent a night at the Platteklip Wash House, that is part of the original historical wash house complex where Cape Town washer women in the 19th century did the laundry. The house lies on the slopes of Table Mountain next to the Platteklip stream.




Very relaxing and better place for Maarten to play than the fancy guest house in the city.







Next morning from here we started hiking the famed Hoerikwaggo trail that traverses the length of Table Mountain. Even thought we started quite early as soon as we left the forest it was already very hot but the views of the city were gorgeous!
We were supposed to walk to the Overseers Cottage to spend a night there but because of heavy rain during the last weeks the road to there was washed away so we had to adjust our hike and return to the Platteklip Wash House.
Via Deer Park we walked to the lower cable station as our guide suggested to take the cable car up to the Table Mountain. Because the wind was down today it was extremely busy and honestly if we didn't share the guide with other Belgian couple I would have definitely chosen walking up the mountain.


Finally at the top, we had some time for a photo and orientation of the City Bowl.



Then we continued to the back Table via the Eco Valley.
It was a lot of climbing and scrambling and the trail was permanently exposed to the hot sun.
We walked some 17 kilometers passing and crossing the dams, than we took the Smuts Track to Mc Clears Beacon which is the highest point of the Table Mountain.
It was an exhausting hike but it was worth it.
Problem was that Rob has broken his toe just the day before our departure so he was suffering "a little" more.





Blister bush or mountain celery is worth keeping an eye out for it on a sunny day!
 
Woodhead Dam on Table Mountain from 1897 supplies water to CPT.

Climbing up to the Flying Dutchman rock formation.
 
Stunning views.
Maclear's Beacon, the highest point on Table Mountain
 
Platteklip Gorge trail down to the Wash House

 
In the evening we returned to the cable car and drove back to the Wash House where we spent another night.

Day after that we were driven back to the Sea Point guest house where the next morning our rental car was delivered so we could happily set off for our Garden Route adventure.

Stay tuned!
 

Sunday, December 1, 2013

Scouts Christmas Party for the Arnoldo Janssen boys shelter in Palanca

AWAA together with the boys scouts organized again a Christmas party for the boys in Palanca orphanage. It was a great event, fun and worthwhile!

The kids really enjoyed having visitors, the games, crafts, and the music. This time there was a life music by Darloch Ceilidh Scottish Band.

I was in charge of face painting.



The boys received soccer and basketball balls as a gift and this seemed to be a great choice!