Juniper Lake, 7 - 10 August

After a long drive to Juniper Lake it is good to stretch your legs.
Right next to our campsite a trail heads to the summit of nearby Mount Harkness.
It’s a pretty climb and I’m surprised how well Maarten is doing. We are huffing and puffing up the trail but he runs all the way and finds looking for the trail markers a huge amusement. Also the switchbacks are a lot of fun. Good!


When we leave the forest behind, Juniper Lake comes into view.
The last part of our climb leads along an exposed and steep slope. Read = boring for Maarten.

‘Maminko, Tvoje nožičky už nechodi...’ (Mommy, your legs don’t walk anymore... Maarten starts to complain.

Luckily the lonely fire lookout tower atop the mountain is already in sight. We are surprised to see someone up here. Wendy, the friendly volunteer, invites us into her ‘home’. Yes, that’s right; she stays up here for four days watching the forested slopes for signs of fire. Then she’s off for another ten days. What a dream ‘job’!

The views in all directions are amazing, but unfortunately it’s quite hazy this afternoon.


In the evening, back at the camp, it's still hot and we are ready to plunge in the lake.
Shock! The water is really freezing.



The trail around Juniper Lake is mostly a level walk with beautiful views of the lake. But after two miles it leaves the shore and only now we can really learn how tiring yesterday's climb was for Maarten. The boys return to the lake. I continue and hope to reach Horseshoe Lake farther in the backcountry.

Even though I truly desire to see a bear in the wild I prefer not to encounter one on a solo hike. I’m a little nervous when the boys leave me but this unpleasant feeling soon disappears.

I’m passing several swamps and small lakes full of pond lilies.
Finally, I reach Indian Lake.
I meet two friendly backpackers there who warn me about bad fishing.

It’s only another mile to reach Horseshoe Lake but I decide to 'save' that for another time. At least I have a reason to come back here again.



The hike to Crystal Lake is supposed to be ‘a killer’. It is pretty steep, but it’s only a short trip and with all the trail markers is fun again for Maarten. Two disappointed fishermen leaving the lake and they are surprised to see other people here. That’s a good sign.

From the cliffs above the lake, the view of Mt. Lassen and Juniper Lake is stunning... it is clear today.

Crystal Lake isn’t as warm 'as promised' but it really is warmer than the much larger Juniper Lake we are camping at.

I’ve hoped to find another trail from here but there is none; so we end up spending the whole day at this beautiful spot.


About the camping at the lake.
I love this area and also this place isn’t disappointing. On the contrary. The campground right on the lakeshore is a gem. Even though it’s still a part of Lassen Volcanic National Park it is far enough from the busy park highway so there is not any traffic noise that could disturb you.
You can camp right on the shore and the lakefront sites are obviously the prettiest but with not much privacy.

We prefer the opposite so we camped back in the forest.
More solitude and therefore more chance to view wildlife.
Though no bear sighting as usual; only (also as usual) a herd of deer coming in the early mornings and evenings to the meadow adjacent to our campsite .

Shasta and Lassen County (09/30 - 10/4)

September 30th

Our (probably) last camping trip of this year is going to be to our favorite Northern California. I hope the weather will stay nice. Of course not that warm like in San Ramon but please no snow yet!
But the loud cricket sound gives still a summer atmosphere when we arrive at the campground.
Unfortunatelly it's raining during the first night but our tent stays dry!


The Sacramento Valley landscape from the I-5.






October 1th


By the morning is the sky clear again but the temperature in the morning is really freeeeezing! 32°F/0°C!
Sure it’s already October and we are at the elevation of 3000 feet something.


Our campsite backs into the canyon rim where a trail heads down to Burney Falls which Theodore Roosevelt pronounced one of the worlds wonders. The falls are indeed impressive but I'm a bit disappointed. The falls are actually so easy accessible which makes it quite busy even off-season. I understand why we were advised against visiting here during the summer month.


This area is a part of the Cascade Range with an all over evidence of old lava flow. The Falls Loop Trail takes us through the canyon along a steep talus slope of tons of round rocks covered with moss and ferns. This is the evidence of erosion where the lava layers have collapsed. A beautiful view even I hope it will not move when we are passing.


We take the Burney Creek Trail to Lake Britton and have picnic at the banks of this at the moment very quite lake.


Another quick walk is the Headwaters Trail where we hope to see the pits duged by the Ilmawi Native Americans to trap big game. We haven’t found any but the fall views of the creek and the pool were worth the walk.


October 2nd


The dry shrubby habitat of this area provides refuge to the mule deer that is the favorite prey of the mountain lions. Luckily we’d only encounter the deer in a pasture several times.


This area is known because of the famous Mount Shasta and Mount Lassen. The third in size is Burney Mountain (elevation 7,863 feet). It’s another beautiful day and we are hoping to get great views of the panorama.
We take the dirt road which supposed to take us up to the summit.


The massive lava flows we see all around us reveal a volcanic past.



We are climbing slowly. The road is pretty rough and very steep on the switchbacks and it takes at least an hour all the way to the top.


Maarten falls asleep and we can enjoy the breathtaking 360 degree views of the surrounding area and indeed of Mt. Shasta and Mt. Lassen. You feel like you’re on top of the world!




October 3rd


When I ask about the Ahjumawi Lava Springs State Park nobody would tell me anything about that. It should be accessible only by boat. Despite we don’t have one we are heading to Mc Arthur and hoping there will be someone who can help us over the water. The scenery is beautiful also in this direction. I’m really curious about the Ahjumawi. I ask a local fellow about the Ahjumawi but he wouldn’t know it?! Than I ask about the Big Lake and he show me the way.

Driving through a vast swamp we finally arrive to the Big Lake. There is indeed no way to get to the park without a boat. We are quite disappointed of course. But there is so much to do in the area.




The Thousand Lakes Wilderness north of Lassen Volcanic NP is another attractive hiking area. We take the same fire road like yesterday to the Cypress Trailhead. We are the only ones here again. The whole area is pretty desolated especially now.
Our primary destination is Lake Eiler.



After we get over a dry creek bed the trail becomes a moderate climb, rising 1,000 feet in elevation for the first mile. Maarten is climbing in a slug pace but at last he has to be carried in his favorite ‘Snuggli’. Fortunately then it levels out to a comfortable hike.

It is very cold up here...we can even throuw snowballs!


We are passing other lake(s) but maybe because of the time of the year there is also no water in here.

Finally we spot the Lake Eiler through the trees, the largest lake in the wilderness. This lake is also quite dry so we can partly walk on the lake bottom.


After a short picnic we have to return to the trailhead before it will get dark. I hope to come back again. What a beautiful and pristine area!


On our way back we almost step on a snake (Ca Striped Racer) that quickly disappears in the dry grass.

Is Maarten still in the jetlag or are our trips really that exhausting?






October 4th

A friendly ranger has already warned us about the weather change which supposed to come this Thursday. She is quite surprised when in stead of packing our tent we are leaving for another trip today.

The morning is cold and sunny as every day and there is so much more to do. We are looking for the historical Fowlers Camp where a trail is routed upstream through forest to the Mc Cloud Middle Falls. It’s still quite sunny but Mt. Shasta is completely covered by clouds. Now and then there is some rainfall but the sun still wins its way through.
Even it’s short and easy hike Maarten is not in the mood of hiking today.

When we finally reach the Middle Falls it’s really cloudy and starts to rain. Rob and Maarten are heading back and I climb up to the falls overlook. It’s getting dark and being in a bear country I make noise with two little stones. Just to be sure not to encounter the big hairy fellows.


Rob makes some signs for me on the path and to amuse Maarten and keep him walking of course.










Next to one of Rob’s signs on the path I see a harmless California Legless Lizard.





Back at the Fowlers Camp we get some sunshine again. We consider take the well-meant advise of the ranger and return home after all.


I take a quick walk to the Lower Falls. It’s also nice but the Middle ones are indeed the best.


On my way back the snowy slopes of the majestic Mt. Shasta come through the clouds for a moment. I understand why so many people consider this impressive mountain sacred.


It starts to snow when we drive back to the campground. No doubts we are going to pack our tent as quickly as possible.
And we are even so lucky that the snow- or rainfall hasn’t reached the campground yet!

Lassen Volcanic National Park (2 - 12 August)

I’ve made some notes (and pictures of course) during our last hiking trip to Lassen Volcanic NP so I can easily recall the past everyday happenings.

Thursday August 2nd

After a long journey through the hot and dry Sacramento Valley we could finally exit the I-5 in Red Bluff and head to the mountains.
The scenery was also improving. I had to take a picture of those nice cliffs even the temperature climbed here to a high of 100 °F (some 38 °C).
I believe you can feel the heat even from the picture. Even there were almost no cars on the highway 36 to Mineral a sheriff car appeared suddenly. Luckily just with a friendly question if we are all right.

We have been already warned about the road from Chester to the Warner Valley. The road is partly paved but then turns to fair dirt with some washboardy parts. But since there is no other way to get here from either of the main Lassen Volcanic park entrances we hoped to find a quiet place with no crowds.

At first I was not very impressed by the campground maybe because of my high expectations but when we choose our campsite I understood the positive reviews this campground gets from his fans. The extremely clean and even well smelling! vault style potties were a big surprise since I was a bit skeptic about the pit toilets.
The drinking water was cold and nicer than what we brought from home.
Also Steve, the host, was very friendly and helpful all the time.

The Hot Springs Creek gurgles by the campground and makes it all a serene nature setting. This became our bathroom for the couple of days we spent here and I have to say that this was also one of the most delightful experiences.

Compare to the coast campgrounds here we were encouraged to scatter old wood to make a fire.
(and we needed to make a fire twice a day because the nights were really freezing!)



Friday August 3rd






Our first hike in the beautiful Warner Valley was to the Devils Kitchen. The name says already a lot about this unique geothermal area: mud pots, fumaroles and vents with strong rotten egg smell of the sulphur.





Maarten didn’t really appreciate this natural phenomenon asking to put on his sunglasses to avoid the hot stinky steam. He improved his hiking from 2 to 3 miles but you can imagine that his interests in sticks and pinecones slow us to a snail’s pace.






Anyway we are happy he enjoys the outdoors as we do and there is always time to splash in a creek or a lake on our hikes.












Saturday August 4th



The Boiling Springs Lake is one of the Lassen Volcanic Park thermal areas. This warm-water lake has some hot springs, mud pots, and fumaroles along its shore. From the south shore you can see the Lassen Peak still with some snow.

Our only company at the lake was the black-tailed deer which made it even more exciting for Maarten who is afraid of it.


Because Maarten was not allowed to approach the Boiling Spring Lake (surprise?) we took another short trail to the Dream Lake where he could practice his swimming ;-)





Sunday August 5th


I was extremely pleased that Rob agreed to stay a couple of days longer at the Warner Valley!
We had to drive to Chester to get more ice (we already got some at the nearby Drakesbad Ranch). I also had to do something about my hair since the wonderful creek bathroom turned it into one huge dreadlock. And even we managed to buy the dry shampoo it unfortunately doesn’t work with my hair at all. We forgot our bucket at home and this really was a big deal. Thanks to our trip to Chester we got a new one and I could properly wash my hair. What a relief!


Rob found a little Rubber Boa next to our tent!







Monday August 6th


Even though it’s supposed to be enough of a climb (800 feet) we decided to try to reach the remote and secluded Drake Lake.
The last steep mile was indeed pretty heavy although still nothing compare to the Upper Yosemite Falls Trail we did last summer. But Maarten is also getting heavier…
The emerald green lake was the payoff!


And again we had the whole place just for ourselves. Except of the frogs and the snakes in the swamp around the lake than. (a harmless Striped Whipsnake)

Beside of the everyday company of the deer we saw a couple of marmots and there were hummingbirds drinking on the thistles along the trail.

The evenings at the empty campground were lovely: the sound of the bubbling creek, the bats and at dusk a howling coyote made the close-to-the-nature feeling even stronger.
I knew we have to move somewhere where we can finally take a real shower. And we wanted to explore also the other part of the park. Despite of that I was not happy to leave this serene place.



Thuesday August 7th


It was indeed quite a shock when we arrived at the Manzanita Lake campground, the only place in the park with showers. Luckily our site (# 18 again!) in the tent only loop was backed by forest and was at the very end of this giant campground. But you would most likely hear rustle of all the hundreds of people here instead of the nature sounds like in the Warner Valley. Anyway next to the necessity of taking a shower it was not possible to make trips to the main area of the park from the Warner Valley without a long drive.
We had nice neighbors – fishermen: father and son. They offered us fresh caught fishes but I had to refuse it since we didn’t have any frying pan (beside of that I was not really in mood of cleaning the fish). I believe I hurt the feelings of the good man since after that he wouldn’t even look at me not to speak about saying ‘Hi’. Did I miss something about the fishermen etiquette?


Wednesday August 8th

Our first hike in the main area was to the Bumpass Hell. I had to admit it really was worth it to visit also the parks higher elevations. The mountains views were stunning. I believe every visitor of the Lassen Volcanic takes a picture of the Lake Helen










but I liked the Hat Lake likewise.









The parking area at the Bumpass Hell trailhead was already getting very busy when we arrived. And also the beginning of the trail was crowded. I have to admit I was really annoyed by that since at the Warner Valley trails the deer were more plentiful than people.





The Bumpass Hell might be the most spectacular of all the Lassen geothermal areas so I gave it a chance and it was worth it. The place is named after a cowboy from the 1860’s who broke though a thin crust above one of the mud pots and he burned so severely his leg that it has to be amputated. A horrifying story when even coming close to the smelly steam is very unpleasant.

Anyway the hike was worth it and the views of the valley were lovely compare to the gruesome Bumpass Hell.
Well, there were no Dutch tourists at all as I’ve expected but Czechs and Slovaks at every step!


PS: The beautiful Upper Meadow and...


…a calm evening at the Manzanita Lake next to the campground.






Thursday August 9th

I was a bit skeptic about the Shadow Lake Trail. I thought it will be crowded like the Bumpass Hell. All right we were earlier this morning but even when we returned there were just a couple of cars at the trailhead. I was surprised that so little people are willing to walk few miles to reach those stunning lakes.
O.K. there was some steep climbs and because of the high altitude some hikers may experience shortness of breath since the trailhead is at 8,000 feet (2438 m).
This trail was really above mine expectations. The lakes were just beautiful and each in a different way.





The Terrace Lake (don’t miss the two hikers down there ;-))






The Shadow Lake







Unfortunately we weren’t sure if our car is locked or not so I decided to go back to check it… (and it was locked of course!) which made an extra mile something for me.
From the Shadow Lake we continued to the Cliff Lake.










I’ve never seen more beautiful lake than that! I’m so sorry I couldn’t capture the reality with my camera. This shallow gray-green sandy lake is probably overlooked because it rests off the popular hike between Summit Lake and Terrace Lake. I would say keep it like that since again we had this blissful solitude just for ourselves.



Friday August 10th



...a relaxed day at the Manzanita Lake. I have to admit it’s a beautiful lake as well and it wasn’t crowded how we would expect. We had a picnic at the lake and Maarten was playing in the water. We even had a race with self made boats from bark and sticks.






...and we had a lot of fun on the trail back to our tent ;-)








Saturday August 11th








Our last day at the Lassen Volcanic was less romantic. The Summit Lake it’s a beautiful spot but most probably because of the weekend it was really crowded. Anyway Maarten enjoyed the swimming and was very upset when we had to leave.



PS: evening at the campground.







Sunday August 12th



Maarten was so excited to be at home and to see all his toys and teddy bears again. The last days he was often asking about them. I just wonder how he will be doing when he and I will be traveling to Europe in September leaving all the toys and daddy! at home…