I’ve made some notes (and pictures of course) during our last hiking trip to Lassen Volcanic NP so I can easily recall the past everyday happenings.
Thursday August 2nd
After a long journey through the hot and dry Sacramento Valley we could finally exit the I-5 in Red Bluff and head to the mountains.
The scenery was also improving.
I had to take a picture of those nice cliffs even the temperature climbed here to a high of 100 °F (some 38 °C). I believe you can feel the heat even from the picture. Even there were almost no cars on the highway 36 to Mineral a sheriff car appeared suddenly. Luckily just with a friendly question if we are all right.
We have been already warned about the road from Chester to the Warner Valley. The road is partly paved but then turns to fair dirt with some washboardy parts. But since there is no other way to get here from either of the main Lassen Volcanic park entrances we hoped to find a quiet place with no crowds.
At first I was not very impressed by the campground maybe because of my high expectations but when we choose our campsite I understood the positive reviews this campground gets from his fans. The extremely clean and even well smelling! vault style potties were a big surprise since I was a bit skeptic about the pit toilets.
The drinking water was cold and nicer than what we brought from home.
Also Steve, the host, was very friendly and helpful all the time.
The Hot Springs Creek gurgles by the campground and makes it all a serene nature setting. This became our bathroom for the couple of days we spent here and I have to say that this was also one of the most delightful experiences.
Compare to the coast campgrounds here we were encouraged to scatter old wood to make a fire.
(and we needed to make a fire twice a day because the nights were really freezing!)
Friday August 3rd
Our first hike in the beautiful Warner Valley was to the Devils Kitchen. The name says already a lot about this unique geothermal area: mud pots, fumaroles and vents with strong rotten egg smell of the sulphur.
Maarten didn’t really appreciate this natural phenomenon asking to put on his sunglasses to avoid the hot stinky steam. He improved his hiking from 2 to 3 miles but you can imagine that his interests in sticks and pinecones slow us to a snail’s pace.
Anyway we are happy he enjoys the outdoors as we do and there is always time to splash in a creek or a lake on our hikes.
Saturday August 4th
The Boiling Springs Lake is one of the Lassen Volcanic Park thermal areas. This warm-water lake has some hot springs, mud pots, and fumaroles along its shore. From the south shore you can see the Lassen Peak still with some snow.
Our only company at the lake was the black-tailed deer which made it even more exciting for Maarten who is afraid of it.
Because Maarten was not allowed to approach the Boiling Spring Lake (surprise?) we took another short trail to the Dream Lake where he could practice his swimming ;-)
Sunday August 5th
I was extremely pleased that Rob agreed to stay a couple of days longer at the Warner Valley!
We had to drive to Chester to get more ice (we already got some at the nearby Drakesbad Ranch). I also had to do something about my hair since the wonderful creek bathroom turned it into one huge dreadlock. And even we managed to buy the dry shampoo it unfortunately doesn’t work with my hair at all. We forgot our bucket at home and this really was a big deal. Thanks to our trip to Chester we got a new one and I could properly wash my hair. What a relief!
Rob found a little Rubber Boa next to our tent!
Monday August 6th
Even though it’s supposed to be enough of a climb (800 feet) we decided to try to reach the remote and secluded Drake Lake.
The last steep mile was indeed pretty heavy although still nothing compare to the Upper Yosemite Falls Trail we did last summer. But Maarten is also getting heavier…
The emerald green lake was the payoff!
And again we had the whole place just for ourselves. Except of the frogs and the snakes in the swamp around the lake than. (a harmless Striped Whipsnake)
Beside of the everyday company of the deer we saw a couple of marmots and there were hummingbirds drinking on the thistles along the trail.
The evenings at the empty campground were lovely: the sound of the bubbling creek, the bats and at dusk a howling coyote made the close-to-the-nature feeling even stronger.
I knew we have to move somewhere where we can finally take a real shower. And we wanted to explore also the other part of the park. Despite of that I was not happy to leave this serene place.
Thuesday August 7th
It was indeed quite a shock when we arrived at the Manzanita Lake campground, the only place in the park with showers. Luckily our site (# 18 again!) in the tent only loop was backed by forest and was at the very end of this giant campground. But you would most likely hear rustle of all the hundreds of people here instead of the nature sounds like in the Warner Valley. Anyway next to the necessity of taking a shower it was not possible to make trips to the main area of the park from the Warner Valley without a long drive.
We had nice neighbors – fishermen: father and son. They offered us fresh caught fishes but I had to refuse it since we didn’t have any frying pan (beside of that I was not really in mood of cleaning the fish). I believe I hurt the feelings of the good man since after that he wouldn’t even look at me not to speak about saying ‘Hi’. Did I miss something about the fishermen etiquette?
Wednesday August 8th
Our first hike in the main area was to the Bumpass Hell. I had to admit it really was worth it to visit also the parks higher elevations. The mountains views were stunning. I believe every visitor of the Lassen Volcanic takes a picture of the Lake Helen
but I liked the Hat Lake likewise.
The parking area at the Bumpass Hell trailhead was already getting very busy when we arrived. And also the beginning of the trail was crowded. I have to admit I was really annoyed by that since at the Warner Valley trails the deer were more plentiful than people.
The Bumpass Hell might be the most spectacular of all the Lassen geothermal areas so I gave it a chance and it was worth it. The place is named after a cowboy from the 1860’s who broke though a thin crust above one of the mud pots and he burned so severely his leg that it has to be amputated. A horrifying story when even coming close to the smelly steam is very unpleasant.
Anyway the hike was worth it and the views of the valley were lovely compare to the gruesome Bumpass Hell.
Well, there were no Dutch tourists at all as I’ve expected but Czechs and Slovaks at every step!
PS: The beautiful Upper Meadow and...
…a calm evening at the Manzanita Lake next to the campground.
Thursday August 9th
I was a bit skeptic about the Shadow Lake Trail. I thought it will be crowded like the Bumpass Hell. All right we were earlier this morning but even when we returned there were just a couple of cars at the trailhead. I was surprised that so little people are willing to walk few miles to reach those stunning lakes.
O.K. there was some steep climbs and because of the high altitude some hikers may experience shortness of breath since the trailhead is at 8,000 feet (2438 m).
This trail was really above mine expectations. The lakes were just beautiful and each in a different way.
The Terrace Lake (don’t miss the two hikers down there ;-))
The Shadow Lake
Unfortunately we weren’t sure if our car is locked or not so I decided to go back to check it… (and it was locked of course!) which made an extra mile something for me.
From the Shadow Lake we continued to the Cliff Lake.
I’ve never seen more beautiful lake than that! I’m so sorry I couldn’t capture the reality with my camera. This shallow gray-green sandy lake is probably overlooked because it rests off the popular hike between Summit Lake and Terrace Lake. I would say keep it like that since again we had this blissful solitude just for ourselves.
Friday August 10th
...a relaxed day at the Manzanita Lake. I have to admit it’s a beautiful lake as well and it wasn’t crowded how we would expect. We had a picnic at the lake and Maarten was playing in the water. We even had a race with self made boats from bark and sticks.
...and we had a lot of fun on the trail back to our tent ;-)
Saturday August 11th
Our last day at the Lassen Volcanic was less romantic. The Summit Lake it’s a beautiful spot but most probably because of the weekend it was really crowded. Anyway Maarten enjoyed the swimming and was very upset when we had to leave.
PS: evening at the campground.
Sunday August 12th
Maarten was so excited to be at home and to see all his toys and teddy bears again. The last days he was often asking about them. I just wonder how he will be doing when he and I will be traveling to Europe in September leaving all the toys and daddy! at home…
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