Frustrating!

After two months our long awaited shipment, Maarten’s teaching package Dutch, has arrived. It was about time! It has already arrived to Luanda on November 5th. But! Instead to Maianga office the shipment had been mistakenly sent to Malongo. Does that sound alike? The camp of Malongo is in the Cabinda Province, northern exclave of Angola, north of the Congo River estuary. Far away! Will that package ever get to its destination?!

Below our home

There is a little river that runs through our neighborhood down in the valley below our compound.

That’s where the farmers get water to irrigate their land to grow crops. Someone was standing knee deep in the river busy with fixing the water pump so I asked him if there are in crocs. Very big ones! He laughed.

Their vegetable fields were impressive

and so were the huge baobabs.

Those two guys asked me to take a picture of them. I said I didn’t have any money with me but they didn’t care as long as I bring them their picture next time. When they started with questions like if I had a husband I knew I’d better catch up with my boys. Anyway, they were undoubtedly very proud of their own appearance.

Do you see the yellow houses with red roofs? Well, that's our compound!

Then we had to leave the farmlands continuing along the river to get to a certain bridge where our driver was hopefully waiting. It’s often quite difficult to find directions and agree on pick-up location because there are basically no signs or official names to most of the places.

To cross the river there was a little footbridge where children from the adjacent neighborhood were playing amid the floating garbage.

You would almost think the river was cleaner up here.

But it wasn't. And no one would really care.

At least now we know where the suffocating smoke is coming from.

The lush and green of the riverbanks form a big contrast with the surrounding built-up areas.

Native plants hang heavy with mango, banana and papaya. Walking here almost makes you forget that you are still in Luanda Sul.

Untill you come out of the greenery back to reality.

Não tenho problema: an attempted trip to the Kwanza River

This was the first time we could set our foot out of the “safe” region. I was very excited very curious how Angola looks outside of the city.

But when a car crashed into us while entering the rotary nearby our compound I knew today won’t be much fun. The driver behind us was busy with his cell phone. There wasn’t any damage to our car at least our driver told us so. We finally conquered the heavy traffic and continued to the south.

The scenery wasn’t anything spectacular; dry red- brown rolling hills with some (baobab) trees scattered around this sparse landscape.

We got a nice view of the Mussulo peninsula.

We saw piles of white sand and machines working on the new coastal road, fishermen drying salted fish on the beach and omnipresent street vendors. I was busy with taking pictures when I noticed that our car was slowing down. There was a group of police officers and our driver was asked to pull over and stop the car. I was glad I returned home to bring our passport copies with us. But I noticed there was something more going on between our driver and the officer so I did my best to understand their conversation. I could sense something wasn’t right. But B assured us with his usual não tenho problema and stepped out of the car to speak with the police aside. I understood there is some problem about the date in B’s license but couldn’t get the details. B returned to the car and told us that we have to drive to the police station but again não tenho problema. Right! I knew this was the end of our trip. On our way to the station the police car stopped again and they discussed the matter again and again.

Then we arrived at the station, a small blue building with its back to the sea and an armed guard at the entrance. B was urged to park the car in their courtyard and we must remain in the car. Actually, the whole time no one would even look at us. We preferred that. The officers were walking around talking to B and he made many phone calls. Then he returned to the car wiping sweat from his forehead asking us for money. I thought they probably ask him for a bribe telling Rob to call the security immediately. B went almost on his knees begging us not to do so. So we paid the bribe but it still wasn’t enough. Later we were asked to leave the police terrain and the same car accompanied us to the main road. That’s where they accepted the bribe.

We were released after all but were not in mood to continue our trip. B’s papers were obviously not in order and what if the police will control us again?!

I only wanted to make a quick stop at the craft market in Benfica that we were passing. It was quite disappointing.

The vendors weren’t aggressive as I heard from the other expats they were actually quite friendly but there wasn’t much more than what I’ve seen at our International Club monthly meetings.

Besides of that I was quite disgusted seeing there real leopard skins, turtle shells and ivory carvings for sale.

PS: At least my first chocolate cake ever was a success! even though it did'nt look very appealing.

Halloween party at our compound CDD

How agreeable is to have a party just one minute walk away from my doorstep! We didn’t have any Halloween costumes like our American neighbors. So we had to be creative and make it work with our own clothes.

I dove into the closet and pieced together my interpretation!

One had to have some imagination to see that Maarten represented a pumpkin, anyhow, he was very orange, even though someone thought he was dressed up like a fairy. But that didn't really matter as we all had fun.

And there even was a ghostly piñata with a lot of candies!

Contra Costa

It wasn’t a great effort to cross the Mussulo. The author of my guide book probably described the trip to the contra costa at some much wider part of the peninsula. Encouraged by our friends who walked to the Atlantic side with their children I asked Maarten to join me hoping to see the whales from the beach just like they did. Well, I knew this wasn’t the best time for whale watching.

We headed inland and followed the sandy path. It felt like we were walking the desert. So hot! The heat of the sun made the smell of the garbage and feces almost suffocating.

But it was quite a short walk to reach the fishing village. We were not followed by begging children just like the author of my book described; actually stuff like this hasn’t happened to me here in Angola yet.

The locals were a little suspious looking at us with a bit of curiosity but as soon as we waved at them and wished them a good day they became friendly.

As expected we didn’t see any whales this time but I was glad to see something of the “other” less fancy Mussulo. And of course we have to come back again later to see the whales!

Biking through farmlands / Halloween party at MB

I’ve already mentioned that we live in a small brand new compound. From two sites we are surrounded by ongoing constructions that get on my nerves at times. More interesting is the area below the compound, the farmlands. Since we moved here I’ve been very curious what are the people growing there. From our windows we can see the huge baobabs and banana trees, but I want to know their gardening secrets. So far my first veggie garden isn’t a big success. The vegetables are not growing well only beans and yams.

Unfortunately we do not have a direct access to the farmlands area. We had to bike at least one kilometer to enter the greeneries.

But biking between the seedbeds was rather about balancing and it was quite a challenge to stay up. The farmers seemed to be surprised by our presence showing us how to find the way out.

We passed a group of local youth who were just cooking their lunch. They were very friendly asking me even to take a picture of them.

Maarten didn’t exactly enjoy the biking here but again he was impressed by the little children helping in the fields.

In the evening we had a Halloween party at the neighboring compound and after trick or treating Maarten returned with a bag full of sweets.

I was quite impressed when he told me that he is going to share the candies with the local kids at the farmlands. We’ll see!

18 - 23 Oct: Ankarana - Nosy Komba - Johannesburg - Luanda

In the morning we had the opportunity for further exploring of the Ankarana National Park. We went for a walk right from our camp. The lake, facing the Tsingy massif, on which edge was our camp located, was a natural site of a stunning beauty.

We were advised not to touch the water because of the danger of bilharzia, a parasitic infection, but according to Clement it shouldn’t be of any danger for the local villagers. I wonder! A little boy was washing dishes right in the lake.

At last we spotted the delightful Madagascar Kingfisher.

Rob found this snake in the dry mud.

It was getting very hot again therefore we were excited to enter this cool dark cave on the other side of the lake. It wasn’t any touristic attraction. This was actually a sacred cave. The local people actually buried their ancestors here. I wasn’t feeling very comfortable knowing that but Clement assured us it’s O.K. to enter here. Next to many bones and gifts for the dead, there was a big pile of sandbags. Clement explained that even though it’s illegal people still look there for gold.

It was time to get in the car again as we had to reach the coast this afternoon.

Along the way we stopped at Clement’s home town to visit a market. I wanted to look at the African fabrics but I was not very successful.

It was very busy and very hot and I was not in the mood for shopping, well, I rarely am. I never enjoy the crowds.

We drove along coffee, cocoa and sugar cane plantations and bought some spices from the farmers. (Maarten with Clement and Sebastien with jackfruit.)

In Ankify there was already a boat waiting for us and we had to say goodbye to Clement and Sebastien. I did not enjoy the boat ride to the little island of Nosy Komba. I was quite scared because the speed boat went far too quick and extremely bumpy but Maarten had a blast. At the same time he was quite exhausted and reacted a bit too hysterical to the heavy bounces.

I was glad when we finally saw this little paradise. At the end of our trip to the mainland after having spent previous days tramping through rainforest and dusty bush coming to place like this was a real treat.

Our very private villa was just the icing on the cake. We almost felt like we were the only ones there. So relaxing!

The location was stunning; the villas were built on a steep hillside in a tropical garden between forest and beach providing excellent views over the ocean.

This volcanic island is much quieter than the touristier Nosy Be and is therefore very suitable for everyone who is looking for a pristine destination. For me!!

There was a small snorkeling reef one bay along from the hotel which was easily accessible by foot or canoe.

Maarten enjoyed watching the colorful fishes till he realized how deep he was and that sharks may come. He panicked and started to cry when he saw the big sea urchins.

But later he was glad to return to the sea and he considered this snorkeling experience to be the highlight of this trip.

Of course also on the islands there is a variety of wildlife. We shared the place with many colorful geckos. This one loved to drink from our foot bath.

This tiny gecko joined us for breakfast to see if he can snaffle some cake crumbs.

The food cooked by the French chef was exceptional, especially the sea food, and Maarten was (and still is) lyrical about their breakfast.

We walked on the beach to the closest village which is just 5 minutes away.

The locals were very friendly and relaxed. pp

I would like to forget about the rest of our trip, namely the last 2 days and 3 flights (one 6 hours delayed) we suffered and keep only remembering the stay at this island, so back to nature, so beautiful, romantic and fun.

I miss it already.